May 14-21
Jekyll Island, GA to Wilmington, NC
Crew - Henry Lammers, Clark Hampton
5/14 1600 Crewmembers Lammers and Hampton arrived at Jekyll
Harbor Marina to begin the voyage. First on the agenda was a ride on the
new folding bikes to the IGA for provisions. Note that the Jekyll Island
IGA is not to be confused with Publix, Sun Fresh, etc. To make matters
worse we were out of Gin and Vodka and it was Sunday so no G&T's! We
split groceries into 3'ds and each biker carried their share back to the
boat. (Adm. B had arrived a day earlier for some maintenance items,
including assembling the bikes and installing new trim tab pump/motor.)
Dined at the Jekyll Island Club, which yet again was excellent. Plans for
walking tour of the grounds were thwarted however due to a toad strangler of a
thunderstorm which began during dinner.
5/15 0800 Departed Marina at slack tide then anchored a
few hundred yards up the waterway in front of the Jekyll Island Club dock for
breakfast. Today's route took us through marshlands to Kilkinney Creek, 30
miles south of Savannah. Lots of switchbacks and range markers to help us stay
in the channel, which for the most part we did. We also served as a mobile
smorgasbord for a host of noseeums and deer flys. The anchorage was quiet
although no less free of bugs, so we turned on the A/C and stayed mostly
"in cabin" except for grilling time. Dinner a la chef Lammers
was marinated grilled chicken, wild rice, broccoli, accompanied by suitable
wine.
5/16 0800 - 1230 To Savannah through more interesting scenery,
many nice homes and even trees along the waterway. Docked at Savannah Bend
Marina in Thunderbolt, a 20 minute cab ride from Savannah. After a gourmet
lunch of boiled crab and shrimp at Espositos, a nearby establishment who
evidentially used the same decorator as Strouds, we headed for town and a
walking tour of the old waterfront. A highlight was the Maritime Museum, which
featured some spectacular boat replicas, all of which had ties to Savannah's
maritime past. Stopped for additional provisions including gin and vodka
on way back to boat. Very interesting cab rides/drivers. Dinner at 45
South was outstanding. (Savannah Bend no longer has a restaurant or pump out
station and the currents at dockside are "brisk", suggest Palmer
Johnson Marina for next stay)
5/17 0855 -1830 Traveled through more marshlands and
several inlets and sounds to anchorage at Rock Creek (45 miles south of
Charleston). Stopped at Beaufort, SC for walking tour of waterfront, lunch
at the Fire House (Espresso House and Bookstore), excellent food and very
friendly, followed by ice cream at Plums. While the town of Beaufort is
over 100k population the historic area on the waterway is small and
quaint. Tides here run 6-7 feet. Strong currents. Interesting
swing bridge. Temp was in 70's winds increased during day to 15 kts.
Dined on grilled Mahi Mahi on board, again Chef Henri and grillmaster Clark did
yeoman's work.
5/18 0800 ON to Charleston though more interesting waterways, homes, docks, narrow channels. Arrived in Charleston in time for carriage tour of historic district and battery which was worthwhile. Dinner at Bacci's, Italian fare was OK but not great. The proprietor gained some points however by taking me to the restaurant next door to use a phone line to send email, since theirs wouldn't work. Docked at City Marina which was very nice, provided courtesy rides to and from the historic district and dinner. Started movie "Sands of Iwo Jima"
5/19 0805 - 1700 - A big day on the water! Took the off
shore route to Cape Fear, a journey of 124 nautical miles, setting a new one day
record for SeaBird. Winds which were forecast initially to be 10-15, rose steadily
though the day and wound up at 20-30 (knots). Made for a bit of a rolly
and at time damp passage, which also rearranged numerous articles below
decks. Route took us up to 25 miles off shore. Unphased, Seamen
Lammers and Hampton alternately read and napped during the entire voyage.
Lunch on the bridge was an interesting experience, although not up to our usual
gormet standards. Arrived at Bald Head Island late afternoon after running
at 14 knots all day. Bald Head is a small private island served only by
ferry, which allows no cars, only electric carts. Nice meal at the Pilot
House restaurant on the island.
5/20 0830 - 1200 Up the Cape Fear River to Wrightsville
Beach, with the current making 10 knots. Wide River with a fair amount of
commercial traffic. ICW splits off just below Wrightsville. Dockage
at SeaPath Yacht Club, where SeaBird will remain till the beginning of Leg
3. Henry's son Peter, friend Terry and his parents Fred and Joan drove
down from the Ralleigh-Durham area for afternoon cocktails and conversation on
the bridge, followed by dinner at (another) Pilot House Restaurant in
Wilmington, this one much better than the one on Bald Head however. Did
brief tour of the Wilmington waterfront after dinner.
5/21 Cleaned and covered SeaBird, did laundry, etc. prior to departing for airport and KC. Thus endeth another leg of this ongoing odyssey of the sea.